Sunday, May 5, 2013

Damask


Damask. Named for ancient city of Damascus where elaborate floral designs were woven in silk. Damask is flatter than brocade and is reversible. The pattern changes in color on the wrong side or, in table damask the contrast of warp and filling satin reveals the pattern. On the right side of linen damask the background is in warp face satin with the design in filling face satin. On the wrong side the figures are reversed.
Drapery and upholstery damask originally made of silk on hand looms. Modern damasks arc of wool, silk, rayon, mercerized cotton or combinations of these. See Lampas. Uses: upholstery, hangings. Weave—Jacquard.    Width, 50"
Damasks in wool and silk are sometimes fashionable for wraps and dresses.
Table Damask.
(a) Linen. Both Jacquard patterns and satin weave are called damask. The best grades are "double damask" because of the fineness and construction of the cloth. The satin weave of which the pattern is formed is an "8-shaft" satin meaning that each yarn passes over seven and binds the eighth.   The lower grades with Damask (table linen) Right side of double damask
looser weave have "5-shaft" satin construction with every yarn skipping four and binding the fifth. Both are sized, calendered and beetled. Double damask is more compact and may be thinner than single damask. The former is more beautiful and will last longer. It has a firm, leathery feel. Table damask is woven by the yard or in pattern cloths. The latter is in greater demand. Weave—Jacquard. Napkins, 12", 13", 14",   16",   18", 20",  22", 24" square.    Cloths
damask 1887
 (b) Cotton damask is used extensively for tablecloths and napkins, particularly for institutions and commercial dining halls. The background is usually made of filling face satin, the reverse of linen damask. Basco* is a trade name for a special linenized finish on cotton cloths.

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