Sunday, May 5, 2013

Crêped or craped

From the Latin "crispare", to curl (rendering a fabric crimpy or crepy). Many effects are produced as:
Hard twisted yarns in right and left twist, warp or filling, or both which kink up when released from the loom.    Examples—georgette, Japanese crepe.
Alternate groups of warp yarns, some wound on separate beam or held slacker than the rest, forming crinkled stripes as in seersucker, ripplette* or Austrian cloth.
Treatment with chemicals to produce blistery or creped surface as Plisse crepe.
Engraved rollers or grooves plus chemicals produce a fabric like Kimono crepe.
Heat and engraved rollers produce mourning or hard crapes which are woven from hard-spun silk in the gum.

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